by Patrick McIvor
Remember when guests used to come to the salon to get green taken out of their hair? Heck, we were even upset if it wasn't booked as a corrective service. Today, it's common to have guests ask for green to be put in their hair… or pink, blue, violet, yellow, or any color humanly/chemically possible to make or see on the visible light scale. The challenge today is not in making these colors, it's in managing the guest's expectations and the realities of unnatural colors ("unnatural colors" meaning those that do not grow naturally on a human head, i.e., blue, green, pink, purple, yellow, teal, etc., as opposed to blonde, brunette, red, black, golden, strawberry, etc. Some colors such as red, golden or strawberry hair colors can be natural or unnatural in appearance, depending on the intensity of the tone.).
You know what the general consensus in our industry seems to be with many of the unnatural hair color results? When you want them to last, they don't, and when you want them gone, the seem to be more permanent. But things are changing, new technology is out there and there are some old school tricks that can still work too.
Getting Color to Stay
In the past, you were not expecting the hair to be in great, or even good condition when using many of the classic unnatural hair colors. In fact, the worse the condition, sometime the better the color took! Today, however, condition is something we need to consider. Firstly, we need the hair to be in good condition because guests today want to still be able to change their color, meaning they might want blue today but next time they might want pink or yellow, and if the hair isn't in good condition that might not happen. Secondly, condition is important because the dye we are using isn't designed to simply stain the hair with a certain pigment. Instead, some colors today are actually made to color the hair by penetrating into the cortex and attaching there, creating longer wearability that's comparable to permanent haircolor wearability. So, condition is something we can control and influence.
Another big factor in increased longevity for an unnatural color is cleansing. The more you wash, the more color is washed away. So, if you want it to stay, try dry shampoos. I love KMS California 2 + 1, KMS California HAIR PLAY Makeover Spray, and ARROJO Dry Shampoo and Dry Conditioner (yes, there is a dry conditioner from ARROJO!). My rule for unnatural color: everyday washing is bad, every other day washing is better, twice a week washing is great, once a week washing is perfect, and less than once a week, ask the people around you.
Can You Leave Now? Getting Color Out
What can seem even worse than getting unnatural colors to stay is when you want them gone in a hurry. Like, for instance, when little Billy and the high school swim team "bleach" their heads and dye their hair blue for the state meet, and then Grandma passes away two days later. Now, Mom shows up at the salon and says, "Get this out now because Billy's a pallbearer!" The challenge can be, if your town is like ours, little Billy probably lightened his hair with liquid bleach and used Kool-Aid to make his hair blue, and now the hair is just done. In these cases, black haircolor is usually not an option to just cover it, and more lightener is probably not better. If it was a color like Elumen from Goldwell, I could use RETURN which reverses the ionic charge that gives the Elumen colors their permanent wearability. But, because Billy didn't use professional products, a product like RETURN can't hurt the hair, but may not be the most effective. Sometimes, old school tricks are good to know - if you want to make an old school stain haircolor fade, use hot oil! Why? Because the hot oil wants to occupy a lot of the same space that the classic staining hair colors take up. Think about it: oil can be used to remove makeup because it gets between the skin and the makeup. Oil-based furniture cleaners clean so well because the oil penetrates the buildup on the furniture, allowing grime to break free without breaking the surface it has become attached to. In these instances, hot oil can only make things better because it almost accelerates the fading process and pushes as much color as it can out of the hair. I like to apply hot oil - anything "over the counter" like olive oil works - by heating the oil in water, fully saturating the hair, then wrapping the hairline with cotton. Let it cool, then apply a plastic cap and place the guest under the dryer, reheating the hot oil on the head. While the oil is warm to the touch, saturate with a cleansing or clarifying shampoo (I like Goldwell KMS). Work through the oily hair and lather, then place back under the heat for 5-10 minutes. Bring to a sink directly from the heat and rinse with hot (not scalding or burning) water. With recent unnatural haircolor of questionable origins, this old school hair trick can have color running away.
New Technology
I've been very lucky to be a part of the Goldwell family for the past 3 years and during that time I have come to love the results of a technology I had not been familiar with that had an outcome that blew me away. Look around for new technology because if I hadn't been formally introduced to a color like Elumen, I would never have believed I could create both natural and unnatural color results with permanent wearability and the intensity of tones I can create. Then, to balance that with RETURN - what a product! Never mind the technology of the product, RETURN allows us to do amazing faded haircolor.
Sometimes the problem with natural is that it is just that - natural. This year's wine is great; last year's vintage, not so much. It's not the vines fault, nor the vineyard owners' or the ground on which the grapes were grown. The problem with "natural" is that nature changes, and each time the outcome can only be known in the end. Predicting otherwise too precisely only increases the chances of being wrong. The same seems to be true with unnatural haircolor. Yes, I know we are making your hair blue today, and I'll be able to better tell you how much it will fade when you come back for your next appointment.
-P